On the Trail Poachers Who Illegally Snare China's Endangered Wild Birds.
The conservationist's eyes scan over miles of dense fields, searching for signs of life in the pre-dawn darkness.
He speaks in a hushed tone as the team seeks a place of cover in the grasslands. In the distance, the huge urban center of Beijing has yet to wake. During the vigil, the only sound is the sound of breathing.
Suddenly, as the sky turns a shade lighter ahead of sunrise, the sound of footsteps emerges. The hunters have arrived.
Caught
In the skies above us, countless migratory birds, some tiny enough that they could rest in the palm of your hand, are traveling to the south for winter.
They have benefited from the long summer days in northern regions, consuming insects and fruit. As the year winds down and cold breezes bring the initial freeze of winter, they head to warmer places to find food and shelter.
The nation hosts more than 1,500 bird species, accounting for thirteen percent of the planet's species – over eight hundred of those are migratory birds. Four of the nine major flyways they follow converge in China.
This particular field in question, on the edges of the Chinese capital, is an haven for small birds – any further and the urban landscape offer little opportunity to rest among clusters of concrete.
It is equally attractive for the poachers and their "mist nets", so delicate you can barely see them.
A net we almost encountered was strung across a large section of the field and held up with bamboo poles. In the middle, a meadow pipit was fighting hard to escape, but the more it struggled, the more its feet got ensnared.
This was a meadow pipit, a species under protection in China, and an important "bio-indicator" – meaning if its population is healthy, so is its environment.
Hunting the Hunters
Silva, who is in his 30s, performs this duty for free using his personal funds. He has sacrificed many nights of sleep to release trapped birds, and he has spent the last decade urging the police in Beijing to enforce the law.
"In the early days, authorities were indifferent," he remarks.
So he enlisted helpers who were concerned and formed a group known as the Beijing Migratory Bird Squad. He held public meetings and brought in the heads of the local police and forestry bureau. These small and persistent acts of persuasion have shown results. The police found that catching poachers also led to tracking down other kinds of criminal activity.
"It became clear our objectives became partially aligned," Silva says, adding the caveat that implementation remains inconsistent.
His passion for avian life began during childhood. He grew up in the 1990s in a very different Beijing.
He remembers roaming through the fields on the city's edges where he discovered birds, frogs and snakes. "But starting from the 2000s, the transformation was dramatic."
Rapid economic growth brought millions of rural workers to cities. This fast-paced development meant grasslands were viewed as land for construction, not conservation areas to preserve.
This shift shocked him. The grasslands started disappearing, as did the ecosystems they sustained.
"I decided back then to pursue environmental protection and I chose this direction," he says.
It has not been an easy life. One of Beijing's biggest bird dealers found out he was being investigated by Silva and retaliated.
"He assembled several of his associates who confronted me and assaulted me," Silva recalls. He says he went to the police but those responsible were not brought to justice.
He has also seen the departure of his army of volunteers over the years. This work demands patience and night vigils. Silva says not many are prepared for the challenging and occasionally risky job.
"I do this full-time," he says. "I made it a project because if you want to tackle this challenge, you must give it your all. You cannot be half-hearted."
He says donations covers some of the costs – over 100,000 yuan a year – but support has waned because of the slowing economy.
So he has adopted new ways to hunt the hunters.
He analyzes satellite imagery to find the routes created by the poachers. He charts these against the birds' migratory routes and looks for areas where they may rest. The satellite images can even show netting setups which can catch hundreds of small birds during darkness.
"Siberian rubythroats and bluethroats sell for a high price," Silva says. "In urban centers like Beijing and Tianjin, those who want to own songbirds are now quite wealthy."
While there are environmental regulations in place, Silva believes the penalties to deter the activity do not outweigh the potential profits of catching and selling songbirds.
Owning a pet bird was – and for some generations in China, still is – a mark of prestige. This dates back to the imperial era. Nobles and elites would build elaborate bamboo cages for their birds.
This custom that continues mainly among older individuals in their 60s or 70s. Silva says older Chinese people don't realise they are breaking the law, or understand that numerous birds had to die in a trap for them to purchase a caged bird.
"These individuals often lacked enough to eat growing up. Now with a little money, they have inherited the habit and custom of keeping birds in cages," he says. "The nation progressed so fast, there was no time to educate people about the environment. Once adults' values are set, they're really hard to change."
Disrupted
Along a riverside path in Beijing, a trader has several tiny enclosures with tiny twittering birds.
Another man stands outside a nearby market holding a bird cage covered by a dark cloth. He tells passers-by discreetly that his songbird is valuable, worth nearly 1900 yuan.
This is a glimpse of an traditional side of the city where informal vendors have established a niche trade.
The area alongside the water extends over several miles and on a sunny weekday morning, there were people looking at everything from old trinkets to dentures.
We were told that protected birds could be bought in a nearby green space. The location was not concealed.
Music was blasting from a speaker in a shaded area where a group of elderly ladies were performing a traditional dance. Nearby several men, all in their later years, had congregated with bird cages – some had multiple in their hands. Most were concealed by dark cloth.
But on this occasion there would be no sales because the police had appeared. They were interviewing the bird owners and recording details. Unyielding, one man claimed he was {taking his caged bird for a walk|simply exercising his