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When assembling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. But, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners totally shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” says the proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their small shop securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.